Thursday, May 31, 2018

A Suit Fit for a Dandy



I got an interesting call from a friend saying he wanted a suit, but not just any suit. He wanted a Victorian suit. Specifically the gray suit worn by Young Dracula in  "Bram Stoker's Dracula". I've done a few modern men's pieces, but not enough to be anything remotely expert level on it, but I agreed to at least research it. 




                    After a few weeks of researching and asking questions and tips from a friend of mine who specializes in Victorian wear (thank you and a big shout out to Kristen D Foggie at Black Orchid Atelier) I accepted the request. I started with the vest because I've done a million vests before and aside from the collar, it's the same construction. I went with the Butterwick B6339 pattern so I could get the unusual drop collar correct. I completely forgot to photograph the process because I'm highly distracted by the actual assembly process these days 😁


First things first, the shirt I had to really search for this one because a modern shirt just wont do when the entire rest of the outfit is circa 1890. I used the Men's Victorian and Edwardian Shirts Pattern by Laughing Moon Mercantile. Just let me say that this pattern is absolutely NOT for beginners. If I didn't already know a few of the terms and processes, I would have been extremely lost. I used collar #46 (high neck collar) so that the cravat would sit properly. The pattern called for "collar studs" instead of buttons which is a new term and a new fastening technique. Hooray for learning new things!



Collar studs and matching cuff links. 



                    I went with McCalls 7003 for the jacket and pants. Now the collar from the movie has an extremely angled point. I figured it was to be more "batwing" like. In real life, I have NO IDEA how the costumers pulled that off. After going through 2 1/2 yards of muslin in an attempt to get the angles correct, I finally threw in the towel and just did it as patterned.  The result is nice, just not a full on copy, which was disappointing to me if no one else. 


               Though I may have been disappointed with bits and pieces of the suit, the groom was pleased with the result, which is all that really matters, and I was happy with the fit (only one fitting throughout the entire process is SCARY). Wishing a happy and long marriage to Chad and Erikisha Lanctot! Thank you for letting me be a part of it!


From the bottom up

I altered the pattern a bit to tone down the copious lace. I wanted to use it more as an accent than a show piece. Especially since I went a...