M'Lady's Dress

My dress this year will be a tweaked version of Simplicity 888101. I'm removing the sleeve caps and a lot of the extra beading and bells. I'm also adding Spanish sleeves and my own beading pattern. The sleeves are going to be my own draft(!) and design. Let's go!

Underskirt is a basic paneled skirt. I did the forepanel in red taffeta that I plan to add pearl beading to at the end of my project. I went with black broadcloth because the silver brocade is slightly sheer with a back light. Between the underskirt and the farthingale, I should keep my modesty. 

I also bound the partlet in some leftover taffeta. I love the effect. 

 Ok, so cartridge pleats are the most AGGRAVATING form of gathering I have ever encountered! Too bad I love the effect. After a few (a lot) false starts and bad words, I got everything gathered and attached to the waist band. 

more whip stitching....

     The bodice was constructed in the normal manner, but since this one calls for hook and eyes, I just reinforced the center back layers with some canvas and bored lacing holes into it, because I like lacing.

I'm keeping the undergarments on the dummy so I can get an accurate visual.

After binding the bodice, I let it sit overnight so the boning would uncurl properly and the bottom of my bodice would stop pointing up. The pattern involved did not have the kind of sleeves I wanted so I branched out of my comfort zone and did a self draft of sorts. I studied every painting I could find with this type of Spanish sleeve

SÁNCHEZ COELLO Alonso, ca 1531-1588/90 (Spain)

 Title : Portrait of a lady

and went for it. I changed the head of the sleeve from the "poof" to tabs and added the drape of the sleeve.

non-HA tabs lined tabs but it worked! 

I purchased some  "brass" buttons and added those to the bottom of the slash. 

I added the sleeve ruffs and and  I will sew pearls onto the sleeve in the same manner as the forepanel.

I decided that the forepart and forepanel was just too plain, so I'm adding some ribbon and beading to both. I got the bodice design from Elizabeth Clayton on Youtube (seriously, follow her for a TREASURE TROVE of ideas). I went for a common cross hatch with pearl centerpieces on the skirt. 

A little off the subject at hand

A made a little christening gown for a co-worker just because I like making baby clothes. I also needed a break from period wear. Specifically my own dress, which is currently driving me crazy (skirt hooks are the devil). This is a slightly modified version of McCall's M6221. 

I love the lace on christening gowns. Just the joy of making something for the tiny ones is worth the working of little sleeves. 

 

The only color I put on the entire dress is the slightest bit of pink on the ribbon. 

and of course, a bonnet!

Coifs and Partlets and other pretty pretties.

The Partlet

Unknown Lady, English School, 1576.

Created from Truly's free partlet pattern, and embroidered with ArtEmbroideryDesign's Strawberry Blackwork pattern. I was going for a variation of this portrait and I think I succeeded. I used white organza to maintain the stiffness and I changed the thread colors to match the dress. 

adding binding

added cording and tied off

The Ruff

It's not Elizabethan without accessories. First up is the supportasse and ruff. I followed the directions from Elizabethan Costuming Page for an Elizabethan ruff. 

The Coif and Forehead Cloth

This was an interesting item. It looks so easy on paper. This is another pattern from Elizabethan Costuming Page (found here). The machine embroidery pattern is from one of my favorite Etsy shops, ArtisticThreadworks. After a few false starts, I finally got it embroidered and lined in some leftover poly satin lining. 

The forehead cloth is unlined and I had just enough lace leftover from the shift to give it a pretty edge. 

The Fans

I used the same fan pattern from last year to make these fans and I feel like I'm getting better at it. This year I used a shorter spindle and painted them silver for a little extra. 

Little Lord Klein

The doublet is from the same pattern as the Merchant's Son, with added shoulder wings.

The shirt is not historically accurate, but it's what I could find on short notice. ( edit: I later found out how simple a Tudor era shirt is and I was kicking myself, but that's for another post) This shirt comes from the Simplicity 4059 pattern

The slops (shorts) are made a pattern from Mooharpist. It was a bit tricky to follow since I've never done a non-commercial pattern, but once you get the flow, it's smooth from beginning to end. It's another "not for beginners" pattern so beware. 

I went with the reverse of the blue brocade and lined it with a sepia toned linen that matches the outline in the brocade. 

Getting everything lined up and evenly spaced was tricky! A few pulled stitches and some wrestling with my machine later, and I successfully completed the outer part. 

                  

               

                

This is my first time creating a codpiece and it was fairly simple. Literally a sew, turn and stuff process. 

All that's left to do now is the buttons, beading and cording!

I picked up this really cool beading foot and I'm in love! This is so much easier than spiral threading with a hand needle!  

I decided to add some beading to the slops because, let's face it, the times called for LOTS of bling and "look at ME!" style. 

I hand wrapped some buttons for the doublet and slops following this YouTube tutorial from Brann mac Finnchad.

The shirt was fairly simple. Lots of gathering and a bit of hand stitching required to make everything lay right. I had some leftover Venice lace from last year so I decided to add that to the cuffs to make it even more over the top!

The finished suit!

           The final piece is the cloak. No gentleman, even a miniature one, would ever be seen outside of the home without one.

I went with the Venice lace and the faux wolf fur just to draw the eye. I also added more the cording from the doublet to tie the whole thing together. 

Owning it!

I will be making a matching hat and he will be wearing long trouser socks (instead of hose) with the whole look.