M'Lady's Dress

My dress this year will be a tweaked version of Simplicity 888101. I'm removing the sleeve caps and a lot of the extra beading and bells. I'm also adding Spanish sleeves and my own beading pattern. The sleeves are going to be my own draft(!) and design. Let's go!

Underskirt is a basic paneled skirt. I did the forepanel in red taffeta that I plan to add pearl beading to at the end of my project. I went with black broadcloth because the silver brocade is slightly sheer with a back light. Between the underskirt and the farthingale, I should keep my modesty. 

I also bound the partlet in some leftover taffeta. I love the effect. 

 Ok, so cartridge pleats are the most AGGRAVATING form of gathering I have ever encountered! Too bad I love the effect. After a few (a lot) false starts and bad words, I got everything gathered and attached to the waist band. 

more whip stitching....

     The bodice was constructed in the normal manner, but since this one calls for hook and eyes, I just reinforced the center back layers with some canvas and bored lacing holes into it, because I like lacing.

I'm keeping the undergarments on the dummy so I can get an accurate visual.

After binding the bodice, I let it sit overnight so the boning would uncurl properly and the bottom of my bodice would stop pointing up. The pattern involved did not have the kind of sleeves I wanted so I branched out of my comfort zone and did a self draft of sorts. I studied every painting I could find with this type of Spanish sleeve

SÁNCHEZ COELLO Alonso, ca 1531-1588/90 (Spain)

 Title : Portrait of a lady

and went for it. I changed the head of the sleeve from the "poof" to tabs and added the drape of the sleeve.

non-HA tabs lined tabs but it worked! 

I purchased some  "brass" buttons and added those to the bottom of the slash. 

I added the sleeve ruffs and and  I will sew pearls onto the sleeve in the same manner as the forepanel.

I decided that the forepart and forepanel was just too plain, so I'm adding some ribbon and beading to both. I got the bodice design from Elizabeth Clayton on Youtube (seriously, follow her for a TREASURE TROVE of ideas). I went for a common cross hatch with pearl centerpieces on the skirt.